Відео

Ha, forgot about that! Glad they were helpful, 7 years later still going strong!

So there are a few options and colors available. I would recommend one of the ones with the "low" bracket which is most of them. This is one of the original long seats and it sticks up in the back to clear the hump on the bookrack (which you just cut away to use the low bracket versions) www.treatland.tv/SearchResults.asp?Search=puch+long+seat

Great! Yeah it's one of those things where once you do it once gets pretty easy.

Outstanding! I've watched a few engine tear down videos and it doesn't seem toooo bad, I know to be a good owner I should do at least the crank seals with this one. Nice to hear yours is still in the family and back on the road, er, lawn!

Oh nice! Thanks for subscribing. I still have the truck it has continued to be a good friend to me. There is definitely more to talk about, I just got a quote to fix the R12 A/C system which was really expensive, there are a lot of things that have "minor wear" like the outer tire rods, mild seepage from the timing cover, etc. Nothing that is a deal breaker that keeps me from driving it, but something that you wouldn't be able to see easily if you were buying it on Marketplace/Craigslist

Exactly! Yeah I will stuff the tube around, inflate it a little bit, then deflate and the tire will hold it's shape. I've done the little bounce, extra soap, inflate/deflate cycles to get a stubborn bead to seat too.

You're welcome!

I don't think so, seems to mainly be a thing for the late 80s/early 90s IFS Toyota trucks

Love it!

Nothing wrong with good maintenance!

I have this timed right at 16 degrees BTDC - if you've never adjusted the timing, you will have to loosen the stator screws to adjust, many Puch mopeds are set with high timing from the factory.

Thank you for your comment! 370k is still super impressive, and it's absolutely worth it to rebuild!

Times flies!

It seems leaky decomps (or a bad decomp like in my case!) are really common Hobbit problems. It's definitely worth it to buy or borrow a compression tester to know for sure. Hobbits are a pretty simple beast (once you defeat the hard-er to access carb and get that clean which it sounds like you have). It could be leaky crank seals if all original but you can actually get to those without splitting the case which is neat. Happy wrenching

Very very true, if you can find a deal, snag it!

Thank you! Love the design on the Mobylette, it is a more aesthetically pleasing bike for sure

@@TravisTutorial oh yeah, and the riding of it is very nice too

It's all part of the fun!

Thank you for sharing! Looking into VEC & TV-2E was interesting, I buy all my parts from stateside suppliers, it looks like they are in Bosnia. Nice universal solution. Oh this bike will be getting a CDI ignition for sure in the future, I'm most interested in a retarding ignition at higher RPMs for even more cooling. 12V for LEDs will also be a bonus. In general, I've found points to be very reliable, I'm willing to bet the reason I got that replacement stator for free was because the points were arcing on the prior owner ha! But all sorted now.

@@TravisTutorialhpi/mvt seem good for that but stay away from those vec modules, everyone says theyre the holy grail of ignitions but in reality it will give you lots of headaches just for it to throttle you down to 11k rpms

@@PapaShrekOh that's good to know, this particular build doesn't rev much higher than 9000k, but in general I like the idea of a CDI that doesn't have a rev limiter

@@TravisTutorial i also gotta ask, what was the though process behind putting a polini on a za50??

@@PapaShrek I've always wanted to build a Polini, and a ZA50 actually, but only recently had the funds to really do so. I rode a very built ZA50 about 10 years ago and it's always stuck in my memory. I also got my hands on the factory Puch dealer tools for shimming ZA50 crankshafts, so the timing was right.

I really liked my sidebleed estoril on the previous build on that bike (softer clutch springs but otherwise identical)

@@bjf10 Oh nice! I was reading a bit about that on MopedArmy, that's pretty neat it's a dedicated oil for 50cc centrifugal clutches!

A few hundred dollars maybe, assuming it's running and riding. Prices have crept up since I posted this video almost 11 years ago. The Benelli is a less common model, but aftermarket parts are fewer and far between.

Heck yeah! I had a 2000 4Runner when I was in college, enjoy it!

I ended up doing just that - not worth the risk after going through the rebuild

You and me both!! Missed a free one a few days ago there are out there!

@idugonjic1 I wish we had the diesel option here, that is the dream - simple low revving engine. For a truck that's been on the farm you're going to really want to look at rust, the frame, suspension components, the bed, etc. Especially if you're going to be driving rough roads in a remote area. Beyond that, plan on a comprehensive service - all fluids, hoses, brakes, tires, etc. Set up right it can still be plenty reliable, but I'd plan on it needing just about every consumable item if it hasn't been on the road regularly in a long time.

@@TravisTutorial Thank you very much for your honest opinion! I'll check all your suggestions and also the timing chain/belt. How the car was serviced... I would like to ask you one more question. What do you think the price could be for a 1991 Toyota Hilux, driven around 300.000miles? Please wish me good luck with the Toyota Hilux?

@@idugonjic1 The best adage in used car shopping, it's worth whatever someone is willing to pay :) The sweet spot for a screaming good deal was a few years ago, unfortunately the very high cost of new trucks, and lower production numbers has pushed up the price on the older Toyotas. They are still a great value. I'm in the USA, so I can't give a figure on what a diesel hilux would be worth, we only get those as Japanese imports and those average around 15k USD though only the nice examples get imported. For something that's that high mileage, assuming the rest of it checks out and it's not a total rust bucket, I think it's fair to pay 3-5k USD.

@@TravisTutorial Thank you!

That's the dream!

Glad it was helpful!

@@TravisTutorial But I am still pinching my tubes! Argh. But I will keep trying

@@dandeangeli9860 Oh no! It is something that gets easier and easier with practice. The Motion Pro 10in tire spoon from treatland was a godsend since it is so smooth. You can also use straight dish soap on the rim instead of soapy water mix if that helps 🤞

Thanks will do

You can see the arrow which points to the right/clockwise on the flywheel in a few shots (16:47) might be the most clear. The camera I was using back in 2013 was not the best, so you can also see it in Google Images if you search Puch e50 Flywheel. I just finished working on a Puch ZA50, which is opposite, it turns to the left/counterclockwise

It is listed as a jacking point in the owners manual: www.toyota-4runner.org/attachments/5th-gen-t4rs/153720d1429094081-jacking-points-lift-support-jpg & Haynes manual cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yotatech.com-vbulletin/732x975/1987_toyota_truck_and_4runner_lift_and_support_locations_445d64abfe17a6fa730d148ae50718cda817456b.jpg Any particular reason why not?

Ah I am so glad to gear it! Hobbits are a great platform once you get them dialed in!

I actually made one about 10 years ago, how time flies! It's a little drawn out, but if you want to see me go through the components and how to remove it it's still useful. The very short version, I would find a spare M5 or M6 bolt that is shorter than the oil injection bolt and put some Motoseal on it and tighten that into the intake, the rest of the components that make up the system can then be ripped out. ua-cam.com/video/KJM_JxX_xCI/v-deo.html

@@TravisTutorial I'm going to watch it, for sure. If I could subscribe to your channel twice, I would!! Thanks man!

@@ogbigtsbikesandstuff887 Thank you!

That means a lot! Happy wrenching !

Thank you! And I'm so glad to hear it! Recently I had to open up a Sachs clutch and I went back and re-watched it since it had been so long lol

I'm from the East Coast originally so it blew my mind how easy it was to work on the truck the first couple times, it's great!

I'm definitely open to trying a higher quality oil!

The Tomos A35 cylinder exhaust port is angled, but not quite in the same way as Puch flat vs angled exhaust port cylinders.

Absolutely!

Oh nice! I've always wanted a Sportster, maybe someday

@@TravisTutorial Mine is an 07 Dyna with a 135HP/139TQ 120R engine. Kind of like a Sportster.

@@upsidedowndog1256 Ah nice I see! Yeah that is a great setup. I had a roommate a few years ago with a Road King that was intimidating!

@@TravisTutorial I still love my Garelli and all of the others!

@@upsidedowndog1256 For sure, there's a special joy in riding a slow bike fast!

Glad they've been helpful!

Estorils are so great on tomoses. I like the technigas next r as well.

@@bjf10 I mainly emphasize the sidebleed part of it, it makes it so much quieter and it makes a really nice powerband. I have an old A3 I wanna try out some different pipes on. I just got a 96 Targa that the guy has some of those technigas on, and it runs pretty nice as well.

@@MakisOfEquinox Thank you! I'm definitely eyeing up the Estoril sidebleed, I think that would be next upgrade next time I bust out the wallet. I remember seeing that total combo suggested in the "A35" upgrade pack treats sells - they have the MLM intake in it too, but I measured the stock Tomos intake and it came out to 14mm which is close enough to 15 (though it does have that sharp angle bend) so I held off. www.treatland.tv/will-s-budget-friendly-tomos-A35-speed-party-p/a35-stock-party.htm I'm also definitely into the quieter aspect since the packing in this Bi-Turbo is looong gone lol

​​@@TravisTutorial yeah, the A35 Targas came with a 14mm intake and Targa lx 15mm. I would suggest against getting the kit with the intake, if you keep the stock air box it is so much quieter, unless you really like it loud, but stock airbox got me some low end back when I switched back to it from the metal mesh that came with the carb. You'll save a couple bucks and it makes it a very pleasant ride. But the Athena Reed is a MUST it is awesome on these engines. Also, I have extras of the stock controls if you're looking to put the OEM ones back on it.

​@@MakisOfEquinox Aah okay that's great info. Yeah if I can get those gains without having to buy a kit it's worth it. Noted on the reeds & intake (will probably do the cranks intake over MLM). Appreciate the offer on the stock controls I have a line on a local set though if I decide to get those back they way they are supposed to be.